Articles

Some Yellowstone Park Small Streams

Obsidian Creek

For years I pretty much avoided waters demanding lightweight equipment, but when I experienced the fun of using such, I succumbed to what Ernie Schwiebert named “The Song of the Small Stream.” Now I make it a point to fish small waters, especially ones new to me, and Yellowstone Park offers numerous candidates to enjoy.

When we think of fly-fishing Yellowstone Park, streams with the great names always come to mind. Such as the Bechler, Fall, Firehole, Gallatin, Gibbon, Madison, Slough, Yellowstone deserve all the renown they are given. But these are only “the tip of the iceberg” when it comes to the quality streams that the Park offers the visiting fly-fisher. The number of quality small waters here is almost overwhelming, but we can start here by describing some of the most approachable and best. To do this let’s first concentrate on those around the Grand Loop with words about location and strategy. For all of these small waters lightweight equipment is most appropriate.  When one heads north out of Norris Junction the fun begins. The Gibbon River,  especially around Norris Junction and its tributary Solfatara Creek offer brook, brown and rainbow trout with a very occasional grayling in the river. These eager fish take almost any offering, especially dry attractor and terrestrial and small beadhead nymph patterns. These streams do get “hammered” a bit because of the large campground at the Junction, but evening visits will offer some solitude.  Further north on the Grand Loop heading to Mammoth, an number of small roadside streams are present. Obsidian and Indian Creeks and the upper Gardner River offer almost non-stop action for brookies that will take anything they can get their mouth around.  When one pasts Mammoth heading east, Lava Creek  offers browns and rainbows and Blacktail Deer Creek offers brookies, but all these are not quite as eager as the Obsidian and Indian Creek brookies. Fast water attractor, caddis, terrestrial  and small bead head nymph patterns will work well as they will for Tower Creek rainbows further east at Tower Junction.  After one turns south, descends Mount Washburn, and approaches the Canyon area, a short walk takes one from a picnic area to Cascade Creek and its Yellowstone cutthroat trout. This is a meadow stream, so any kind of hopper, ant or beetle pattern will bring the cutts to the surface. Not many small waters are available further south along the Grand Loop. But after one turns west from Thumb Junction and travels toward Old Faithful, DeLacey Creek crosses the highway near the halfway point.  Brook Trout inhabit this creek, and if  the adventurous fly-fisher walks down the creek about a mile on the well maintained trail, the stream passes through a meadow that offers terrestrial insects to its eager brookie population. After passing Old Faithful heading down the Firehole River one approaches Upper Geyser Basin, and Iron Spring Creek and Little Firehole River enter from the west. The lower parts of these streams act as a summertime refuge for Firehole River trout with their cooler waters. because of their increased summertime trout population, these streams attract fly-fishers.  Further downstream as one approaches the Firehole River Canyon, Nez Perce Creek crosses the highway. If one parks in the nearby campground and walks upstream away from the highway, good fishing for brook, brown, and rainbow trout can be had.

So here’s a look at some of the best small stream candidates around the Grand Loop, the most visited part of the Park. Rest assured that roads from the five entrances feeding the Grand Loop pass by quality small streams. Perhaps an article describing some of these waters would be fitting. One thing for sure; you will find a better measure of solitude on all these streams.

Slough Creek

SLOUGH CREEK

When run-off leaves Yellowstone Park’s Slough Creek, it becomes a destination from July through September for fly-fishers from all corners of the world, especially to encounter Yellowstone cutthroat trout. Just viewing Slough Creek is a pleasure, and not having a high resolution camera when fishing it is a mistake.   Few places anywhere can be a better example of a meadow stream, and it is the stair-step meadow reaches of this stream that attract so many fly-fishers. The first meadow is approached from the access road beginning at the Northeast Entrance Highway and ending at Slough Creek Campground, a distance of a few miles. Needless to say this meadow reach gets “hammered” because of being beside or not far from a well maintained road.  In addition to cutthroat trout, this part of the stream also holds cutthroat-rainbow hybrid trout, and Yellowstone Park now requires that these be killed. Not far above the campground, Slough Creek passes over a steep cascade which prevents, on a natural basis, these hybrids from entering the stream above.    Above the cascade Slough Creek flows through two breath taking meadows, known unofficially as “first above” and “second above.” When traveling to the campground from the highway, one passes the trail head and parking lot for reaching these meadows. An entertaining past time here is to see  how many states, provinces, or countries are represented by visiting fly-fishers.  At times little parking space remains there, so popular is the stream in the two meadows above.  But the further upstream a fly-fisher is willing to venture, the less company that person will experience. The lower of these two meadows requires a walk of about two miles up a well maintained trail which also serves as a tote road for supplying a ranch north of and predating Yellowstone Park.  The stream in the upper and larger meadow requires about another three more miles of effort to approach. A good strategy for enjoying the stream in the upper meadow is to reserve one of the primitive campsites to use as a base of operations for an overnight or longer visit. The rewards for efforts to fish the stream in either meadow is a population of essentially only Yellowstone cutthroat that range up to trophy sizes.  As previously mentioned, the fly-fishing season here is best when run-off leaves. That is usually before the first of July, but can be later following heavy snowfall winters. Yes, there is the early season progression of mayflies (and later in the season that of tricos) and responding trout here, as is the case on many Greater Yellowstone Area streams.  But where Slough Creek really comes into its dry fly fishing own is when terrestrial insects become important in the trout’s diet. That usually begins as the meadows dry out in July. At that time a much overlooked opportunity comes from presenting patterns for mating and egg-laying damselflies on the stream.  Success during times when trout take terrestrial patterns has a major requirement: the angler must keep out of sight of feeding trout. One must remember that these trout inhabit the water “24-7,” and any temporary change in their field of vision puts them into flight mode. Thus long casts, a low profile, gentle stepping, and subtle use of sunlight are required where even a person barely five feet tall can be the most prominent object around. Want to lessen these requirements? Try fishing waters in the timber reach between the two meadows. There is a background of tall timber here, and shelter from winds and intense sunlight.  In my experience the trout are not as cautious as those in the stream out in the meadows, and you will have fewer interruptions from other fly-fishers. So if you have yet to visit this superbly attractive stream, put in on your “to-do” list. Also we can help you with strategy details.

McCoy Creek

 McCoy Creek

McCoy Creek is the most easily fished of the major Palisades Reservoir tributaries coming out of Idaho.  That is because a well-maintained gravel road parallels most of its length. As with Big Elk Creek (and Palisades Creek below the reservoir), a large and popular campground sits very near its confluence with Palisades Reservoir. McCoy Creek is approached from Idaho Falls by traveling US Highway 26 to Alpine Wyoming. From there one goes south out of town a few miles on US Highway 89, turns right on the McCoy Creek Road which crosses Salt River, skirts the southeast corner of Palisades Reservoir, then crosses McCoy Creek to parallel it upstream for several miles.

Entering the reservoir several miles southeast of Bear Creek, McCoy Creek is a significant run-off stream through draining Caribou Mountain and nearby high country. This means high and discolored water can make it difficult to fish in the early season. The most attractive locations to fish this stream are its meadow reaches that begin a few miles above the reservoir. Upstream of these meadows the stream flows through a small canyon, much like Bear Creek. Above this canyon reach the stream branches into tributaries, several of which host beaver ponds.  McCoy is also a significant spawning and rearing stream for cutthroat trout.  It is subject to catch and release regulations from December 1st until the opening of Idaho general fishing season. A daily limit of six salmonids applies, but no harvest of cutthroat trout is allowed. Other than cutthroat  trout, whitefish and a very few brown trout are present in most of the creek. Some brook trout, escaping from beaver ponds, may be present in upper reaches.

Winters of major snowfall can push the beginning of good fishing here past the general season opening on Memorial Day weekend. Lingering snow can also make the road paralleling the creek impassable into June, but early season fishing can be good as run-off diminishes and access improves. Streamer and large woolly bugger patterns work best in the early season.  Cutthroat having spawned will return to the reservoir but will take these flies when properly presented. Some of these returnees can exceed twenty inches in length.  However as water drops to base level by early summer, few large trout remain.  By this time the best fishing McCoy Creek offers begins. A good population of moderate sized individuals are present, and aquatic insect emergences attract them. Caddis, yellow sallys, and PMDs predominate with a few golden stoneflies, but as time advances through July, terrestrial insects become important food items. Lightweight equipment with a floating line and fine leader (4X-5X) are a best fit.  Long casts will not be necessary for success here.

Easily approached in its meadow reaches, and having a good population of eager trout, McCoy Creek is an ideal stream for introducing a youngster or entry level person to dry fly fishing. The same applies for a taking a physically challenged person fishing. Afternoon and evening hours are the best time for dry fly action beginning in July and going well into September.  The only disadvantage to fishing this stream is its distance from town compared to near equivalent creeks such as Palisades, Big Elk, and Bear Creeks.

Mainstem Snake River

In the minds of so many fly-fishers the Snake River from the Henry’s Fork confluence downstream to American Falls Reservoir takes a back seat to the South Fork reach (Palisades Dam to the Henry’s Fork confluence and to the Henry’s Fork. Perhaps it is because the best fishing on the main stem is very seasonal and also because access to the river is more limited because of the vast expanse of private land through which it flows. Best fishing is seasonal mainly because when the irrigation season begins water to satisfy demands makes successful fly-fishing more difficult to come by.  High and fluctuating flows during that season make wading more dangerous than in many area waters and can also influence boating.  Nevertheless success can be found  at certain locations.  BWOs and PMDs can be seen emerging in season, and when flows begin to drop and stabilize around Labor Day a legendary snowflake dun emergence begins on the river. It is heaviest from just below Blackfoot down to the reservoir.  In August when waters are almost always high a hexagenia emergence takes place from certain locations along the river.  Silt is required as nymph habitat for this giant mayfly.  One location where this is present in quantity is the river bed going through Idaho Falls.  Specifically this habitat is above the power plant diversion forming the still water just above the Broadway Street Bridge up to the John’s Hole Bridge.  Another good habitat location is in Gem Lake a few miles below town.  Hexes emerge in the evening and during nighttime.  Some of them find their way to building fronts in town, and it is comical when a puzzled fly-fisher comes during morning into the shop holding one and wondering “what the h— is this? Do PMDs get this big?”  So yes, there are mayfly seasons on the main stem, and there also are numerous caddisfly, yellow sallies, and midges emerging almost year round.  Best time for the BWOs is early in the season before irrigation water takes over, then later after it is mostly gone.  During these times BWOs can be seen just about anywhere on the river. Same with midges and caddisflies.  So when low waters come around and overcast or storms prevail a BWO experience from walk-in wading at  select locations can rival those on the South Fork and Henry’s Fork

One fact that many fly-fisher find tough to accept is that there are more truly large fish in the main stem Snake River than in the South Fork reach or the entire Henry’s Fork.  And the best way to encounter these is through presenting streamer patterns (sink tip lines, short stout leaders, and seven to eight weight systems). This is true even during high water times, but then such as fast sink tip lines are necessities. Even lead core lines to get down in calmer sections can work. Yes  it was caught through using bait, but the state record rainbow trout came from the river below Tilden Bridge, and bait fisherman take double figure poundage browns and rainbows year round. In years gone by, cutthroat trout this size were common in the river.  For the fly-fisher the best time to encounter the large trout this part of the river offers is from the end of irrigation season through winter and on until irrigation season begins.  Much of the river can be safely waded, and fish are concentrated relative to during the high water season.  At these times, as always when fly-fishing, presentation trumps fly pattern selection.  Have bright and somber patterns in the fly box.  Expect best fishing during low light conditions, and when bright sunlight prevails, seek  parts of the river out of direct light.   Locations during low water are aplenty, and the best way to make a selection is to come to the shop and discuss “where to fish” with us.

Lewis River Channel

Lewis River below Shoshone Lake

Yes, because of the shenanigans currently going on in Washington DC you cannot get into Yellowstone Park to enjoy and appreciate what happens in Lewis River between Shoshone and Lewis Lakes this time of year.  But if those “pols” ever recover their reason, do their job and open government functions before the end of Yellowstone Park’s fishing season the first weekend of November, consider the following (that is weather and roads permitting).  Here’s what goes on there: you will see the densest population in the Park and maybe anywhere of brown trout congregating to spawn. They come from both lakes into the riffles in the upper part of the river to seek the right substrate for spawning.  Like the beginning of an Old West gold strike the males move in to establish a “claim” (spawning territory in this case). They scrap to keep out interlopers ( claim jumper in the case of humans).  Soon the hens come in to take advantage of the claimed territory, and the spawning begins. Because of the brown trout population in both lakes,  the Lewis River system hosts the biggest brown trout population in Yellowstone Park. Their spawning run between the lakes begins late in September and peaks about a month later. For decades it was almost a secret shared by anglers from Jackson Hole , West Yellowstone, and other communities close to the Park.  But in the 1960’s  an angler craving notice published in a national magazine an article on the spawning run, and its presence thus became common knowledge.  Now this event is a destination for many anglers.

There is a way to avoid the resulting crowds that slosh through the river and by doing so put many fish down. Get there early in the day before the disturbances start and more action will result. It may mean beginning the four mile walk from the trail head just above Lewis Lake at “oh-dark-thirty”, camping for the night at the outlet campground or at one of the nearby canoe campsites (permit needed), or waiting for a stormy day.  But if you are successful in being among the first on the three-quarters of a mile of river where the fish concentrate you can be in for unforgettable fishing.  All you need is a fairly stout rod (six or seven weight) and strong  (3X-2X) nine foot leader, floating line, and large (4-2/0)streamer flies in either colorful or somber hues.  Trying to keep a low profile or presenting from as far away as possible while swinging a streamer in front of a school of browns will result in hard, deliberate strikes. These strong fish range from around seventeen on up to near thirty inches and they do not give in easily, such is their spawning urge.  Warm clothing, reliable  waders and good physical conditions are required. So is preparation for bad weather. I recall a trip when three of us arrived at the same time as a storm came in. As snow accumulated and winds dropped wind chill to uncomfortable levels, anglers left in droves. We, however, fortified with “potable antifreeze” spent the night and awoke to an abandoned river which offered unbelievable streamer fishing. It cleared off that night, making wake-up air temperatures around ten below in degrees F.  But the three of us had the river to ourselves, so cold did not matter.

Here’s something to consider: if those Washington DC shenanigans end sometime this month, those browns will have been undisturbed for days if not weeks. The first several fly-fishers visiting the river will experience unbelievable fishing.  That could be YOU!

Sand Creek Ponds

Sand Creek Pond #4

For decades these ponds owned by Idaho Fish and Game have provided good fishing for the public.  Amongst other reasons they were established to help support the elk herd wintering in the area. They are the still waters furthest west of the string of small reservoirs located in or near hillside hollows north and west of Ashton.  All these except for Sand Creek Ponds are private waters.  Some are closed to the public, others can be fished for a fee.  Still waters at Sand Creek consist of four ponds, above which is Blue Creek Reservoir. In this year of drought only the largest, Pond # 4, offers fishing.  From Highway 20 turn left onto the St. Anthony Highway 20 Business Loop. Cross the Del Rio Bridge, and turn right at the sign indicating 16 miles to the ponds.  After a few miles pavement gives out to twelve miles of dusty but well maintained gravel.   Pond #4 is the first that comes into view, and circling around its west end one takes a right to approach the primitive boat dock.  There are restrictions on all of these ponds.  Yearly one cannot launch a boat on any pond until after July 15th. Boats on all ponds must be non-motorized.  Pontoon boats and float tubes are ideal for fishing these ponds, although hard sided boats work, too, but because occupants typically stand while fishing they are more visible to fish.  Speaking of fish: rainbow trout are the main occupants of the ponds, and they grow to trophy sizes. A lesser  population brook trout is also present.  One can fish from the south and west banks where rip rap piled to form the pond is topped with enough soil to form grassy banks. These banks are usually populated by local bait and lure anglers, an their stories of big fish encounters can be entertaining. When one goes onto the surface of these ponds, the rich farm ponds of the rural southeastern and mid western states come to mind.  Here are copious lily pads, cat tails and islands of bull rushes.  No bull frogs or turtles are present though.  Neither are “big mouth bass” catfish, crappie, or brim. Also no snapping turtles or water moccasins to the extreme joy of anglers using soft sided boats! When allowed on the pond surface by boat, the emergence one can expect is that of damselflies, and a most effective way to encounter some of the lunker ‘bows is through presenting dry adult damselfly renditions.  A bit later in the season speckled duns and caddis emerge with resulting gulpers taking action.  As summer advances presenting grasshopper patterns on the surface can be productive  as windy days blow them in from adjacent grasslands.   All the season long midge pupa, small leech, small fly rod jigs and snail patterns will work subsurface.  Best times to be on these ponds are early and late in the day. Primitive campsite are near by to help in being on the water at these times.  Bring water and take out your trash.  being adjacent to the Island Park caldera thunder storms an be frequent, so be prepared.

Warm River

Warm River

Just as is the case with any stream close to the Madison River or the South Fork, any stream located next to the Henry’s Fork  will come out second best in terms of  visitation.  It’s all understandable, but  it also leaves a visit to that second best stream open for not only a better measure of solitude, but some excellent fishing.  That’s certainly the case with Warm River for much of its length just to the east of  the Henry’s Fork.  Actually a spring creek with beginnings against the west edge of the Madison Plateau and supplemented by a  contribution from brookie laden Partridge Creek, Warm River in it upper sections is a good lightweight tackle stream.  It really comes into its own At Warm River Spring as shown in the above pic.  This spring gushing out of the side of the hill is worthy of a visit in its own. Only Big Springs on the Henry’s Fork above Mack’s Inn brings more underground water to the surface in Island Park. From here Warm River drops into its canyon with increasing gradient until due east of  Bear Gulch when the gradient eases to be gentle  for most of its remaining  course  to the Henry’s Fork. This lower course from its confluence up to and for a way above Warm River Campground is easily accessible along the old railroad grade and thus very popular with visits from anglers of all legal terminal gear.    So let’s go back to the river where Warm River Spring enters and where visits to the river just below are much fewer. You get there off the Mesa Falls Scenic Loop.  Just above Mesa Falls State Park  turn right onto an excellent gravel road signed with Warm River Spring and other places of interest.  Go east on the road for some miles, then take the right hand fork which soon turns  to cross the railroad grade, goes through a meadow, then down into Warm River Canyon to end at the Spring.  Along the road in the canyon several pull-outs make for easy access to the river.  As with any location in this region, the further one walks away from a road, the fewer folks will likely be encountered.  That  strategy applies here, so  walk downstream as far as time permits, then begin fishing.  Here’s another option; on crossing the railroad grade before dropping into the canyon, park, gear up, then walk down the grade for about a mile to where it converges with the river.  Drop off the grade here to fish the river.  September and into October is a great time to visit Warm River in this area.  Terrestrial insects are numerous until a killing frost, and mosquitoes are gone. Afternoon egg laying caddisflies are important to feeding fish, and so are emerging BWOs.  Of course nymphing will get results here, but top water fishing here ranges from good to superb.  So hopper patterns and BWO and caddis life cycle patterns work well.  So do traditional attractor patterns.  What can really be fun here is seeing which specie of trout takes your offering because brookies, browns and rainbows are present.  The browns and bows can range up to eighteen inches making for great sport in the riffles and runs.  Try a four or five weight system with a 9-foot rod, same length for a leader of 3X or 4X tippet for this water and be sure to bring a camera.

Big Elk Creek

Big Elk Creek

Thanks to deep holes hosting cool waters and abundant in-flow from springs, this stream remains excellent fishing in this year of low water.  You must walk up about two miles to enjoy the best of what it offers, but the further up you walk, fewer anglers will be encountered.  You get to the Big Elk Creek trail head by driving to the end of the road that begins off US Highway 26 on the northwest side of  Big Elk Creek Arm of Palisades Reservoir.  Driving up the road you pass the USFS’s campground just below the trail head, and this well kept campground could make a great base of operations for fishing the creek and other near-by waters during a several day stay.  Another plus is that like Palisades Creek , Big Elk Creek is non motorized. The lower end of the creek is mainly higher gradient meaning a smaller number of larger fish. Thus the need to walk upstream for the best fishing. Yellowstone cutthroat are the sole salmonid resident here except for kokanee which enter this time of year to attempt spawning.   These do not have a negative impact on cutthroat activity, but do bring a number of anglers trying to entice them to strike.  Fortunately, most of these stay within the lower mile of the creek. Unfortunately there is a remnant subculture bent on snagging these fish.  IDF&G asks that on observing such activity you report it to them. In fact IDF&G has undercover agents watching the stream, so that cowpuncher-looking gent or lady on horseback may observe you and ask for you fishing license. No problem if you are fishing dry flies which is by far the most interesting way for action on this creek.

So when is the best time of day to fish this stream and how about strategy?  It’s a  high country water, so it radiates heat as soon as the sun leaves, and that happens in late afternoon because of the adjacent steep country.  If you are a dry fly enthusiast the best time of day for action begins mid afternoon when water temps get into the mid 50s in degrees Fahrenheit.  Fish become more active then in search of terrestrial insects, so try around overhangs above depth and in front of undercuts with your favorite terrestrial patterns. But this time of year as soon as flavs begin emerging, action really turns on.  Look for fish in the deeper water, like that in the above pic, to take at the top of holes, or if the surface remains a bit broken throughout,  just about anywhere. Choose a pattern you can see on a broken surface.  My favorite is the out of style, but classic blond humpy in size 12. I can see it anywhere.  I’ve tried CDC renditions for flav duns. They work as well for sure as that out of date humpy, but they are no where near as rugged.  That being said, Mike L. might ask me to plug EP fibers for winging and to bring my fly selection into the 21st century! In any case your favorite flav dun will do if you present it correctly. In the case of this creek that would be an upstream presentation because of the angle the sun makes on the creek.  You can enjoy Big Elk’s flav activity into September, so there is plenty of time to give it a try. When you do, bring a camera because the country side is gorgeous.  Bring potable water or a purifier because as pristine as the creek looks, sheep graze some of the surrounding highlands. That is the only thing that alters the water quality in this unique stream.